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I am an intrepid traveller. Travelling has been my passion since school days. Hailing from the steel city of Rourkela in Odisha, I always had an opportunity to plan out my holidays with my family to exotic destinations that are rich in history and heritage in India. Looking back, I have also taken up trekking in Chauragarh hills of Pachmarhi, Shatrunjaya Hills of Palitana, Vaishno Devi or the Muktinath temple in Mustang Valley in Nepal and Lalang Waterfall in rainforests of Tioman Island in Malaysia. I have penned down the Odisha destinations in Pick2Move-India Travel planner brought out by Sampan Media Limited, New Delhi. I have compiled a travelogue themed- “Journeys across India” published by Best Books, Kolkata. I generally take up travel to pen down travelogues, know the art and craft of the faraway lands and of course, I do travel reporting for leading English dailies of India.

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Monday 4 January 2016

Of tranquil ashrams on river Ganges













   
   
                                 On the banks of Ganges in Rishikesh
 
 
Lying in Tehri-Garhwal district of Uttarakhand, Rishikesh is nearly 25 km from Haridwar and one can visit the destination by road or rail. Rishikesh on the foothills of Shivalik range has scores of ashrams in the name of great sages of India and dharamshalas.
     
     
                            
              Ram Jhoola at Muni-ki-Reti, Rishikesh
                                                 

 
 
During my previous visit to Rishikesh back in early 80’s, I had visited Lakshman Jhula, so this time, I had made up my mind to travel to Ram Jhoola at Muni-ki-Reti. The ghats on the banks of river Ganges are clean and form the best place to get steeped in meditation.

Swarg Ashram
 
Swarg Ashram
 
One of the earliest ashrams of Rishikesh, Swarg Ashram is dedicated to the reputed saint, Baba Kali Kamli Wale Atma Prakash Ji Maharaj. I entered the ashram to view the statues of four great sages of ancient India- Vasisht, Shankracharya, Tulsidas and Ved Vyas.

Gita Bhawan
 
Gita Bhawan
 
The sprawling ashram of Gita Bhawan has a shrine honouring Lord Ganesha, Shiva and Parvati. The walls of the shrine have many colourful illustrations depicting mythological tales.

Parmarth Niketan
 
Parmarth Niketan
                                          

 
If one walks past Gita Bhawan, one comes across the tranquil Parmarth Niketan that is a significant centre of yoga and meditation in Rishikesh. The entrance of Parmarth Niketan has the statue of Lord Krishna riding the chariot along with Arjuna facing the Ganges. Parmarth Niketan is run by Ganga Action for Planners (GAP) that is constantly striving to save river Ganges from pollution and create pollution-free ambience.

Into the world of mythological charm

 
Into the world of mythological charm
 
Around 3.5 km from Haridwar is the pilgrim town of Kankhal on the banks of river Ganges where mythology comes alive. This is the destination where King Daksh Prajapati, the father of Goddess Sati had performed the ritual sacrifice- Daksh Yagya without inviting Lord Shiva during the age-old world. Goddess Sari could not bear the insult and reduced herself into ashes into the havan kund.

Daksheshwar temple
Daksheshwar Mahadev Temple
 
To us, the prime attraction of Kankhal has been the shrine of Daksh Mahadev on Daksh Road. 
     
Idol of Lord Shiva at Daksheshwar Mahadev temple entrance

 
We walked past Chowk Bazaar and reached the entrance of the shrine that has the life-size statue of Lord Shiva in tandav nritya holding the body of Goddess Sati. The walls of the shrine have the illustrations of the life of Goddess Parvati. 
 
The main attraction of the shrine is the place called Havan Kund or Yagya Shala where King Daksh had performed the Yagya. There is the Sati Kund with the idol of Sati.
 
Adjacent to Daksheshwar shrine is the Brahmeshwar temple that has portrayed the 10 incarnations of Goddess Durga including Kali, Kamla, Tripureshwari, Bhuvaneshwari, Tara, Baglamukhi, Shorsi, Chinnamasta, Chamunda and Skanda Mata.

Shitala Mata temple
 
We went at the back of the shrine to visit Shitala Mata temple that is regarded as the birth place of Goddess Sati.
The birth place of Goddess Sati
 
The shrine is devoted to Goddess Kali and Goddess Sati. Visiting the birth place of Sati filled us with an utmost feeling of satisfaction.

Journey into the spiritual world

Journey into the spiritual world
 
I had embarked on a family trip to Haridwar during Diwali, this year and it was an ideal time for us to indulge in spiritualism and revive our early memories of Dev Bhoomi. It was time for us to unwind from the daily chores of life. We had halted at Hotel Bhaskar overlooking the Railway station and in the vicinity of Garibdasi Dharamshala. The ancient city of Haridwar retains its old-world charm in the midst of its bustling crowd.

Har Ki Pauri
 
Ganga Mata shrine and the Clock Tower at Har Ki Pauri
 
Har Ki Pauri is the calling card of Haridwar that has the highly revered Ganga Mata shrine on the banks of river Ganges. On the first day, we made our way to Har Ki Pauri in the early hours of morning to offer our puja in the age-old Ganga Mandir. 
 
The main shrine of Goddess Ganga Mata
 
Before reaching Har Ki Pauri, we passed through the crowded Moti Bazaar where shops are lined with puja offerings and there are scores of restaurants for pilgrims. We reached Har Ki Pauri and first sighted Maha Kali temple. There is also Sringeri temple and Badrinath and Kedarnath temples lying adjacent to it. We crossed the bridge to reach the ancient shrine of Ganga Mata and offered our puja.
 
Pilgrims bathing at Har Ki Pauri ghat
 
The ghats offer good views of the shrine of Ganga Mata, Shiva temple and the clock tower. Besides, at the entrance pilgrims also visit the main shrine of Ganga Mata dating back to ancient times. 
 
Once our puja was over, we moved into Moti Bazaar to gorge on lip-smacking kachoris with bedmi aloo at Mathura Walon ki Pracheen Dukan.
 
I had an opportunity to get a glance of the glittering Ram Mandir at Jodhamal Road. There is Makarvahini Ganga Dwar at Birla Bridge that attracts many pilgrims.

The Haveli Hari Ganga
 
Haveli Hari Ganga
 
The one and only luxury heritage hotel in Haridwar, the Haveli Hari Ganga lies on Ram Ghat in Moti Bazaar and was the property of Maharaja of Pilibhit that has been transformed into a hotel. 
 
The hotel set-up provides traditional hospitality of Garhwal and is itself a world of meditation. Moreover, it represents a blend of heritage and modernity with its old-world mantra paintings. The restaurant of the hotel serves authentic Garhwal delights.

Saturday 2 January 2016

Eclectic wonders of Gangtok

Eclectic wonders of Gangtok
 
For those interested to know about Tibetan Buddhism, the best destination to visit is Gangtok. The majestic Kanchenjunga towering at a distance meets the eye of visitors in the wee hours of dawn. It was during last October, 2015 that I was away to Gangtok to attend the 4th International Travel Mart held at Sarmasa Garden, Ranipool in eastern part of the Gangtok. The city holds immense possibilities to know about Tibetan Buddhism and one can spend the entire day feasting on the sights of a number of ancient, famed monasteries. At Gangtok, I had a peek into the must-visit monasteries that offer info on Tibetan Buddhism.
 
Enchey Monastery
 
 
There is the 200-year old Enchey monastery at Chandmari in the east of Gangtok city that stands as one of the major recognized gompas of Sikkim. The monastery was the brainchild of the Dhrubthob Karpo- the tantric who was well-known for his flying power, the sprawling monastery was built way back in 1840 on the lines of sacred mountain of five peaks in China. We came across a plethora of gods and goddesses in the monastery.
 
Namgyal Institute of Tibetology
 
 
 
From Enchey Monastery, we moved straight to Deorali bazaar that has the renowned Namgyal Institute of Tibetology. The renowned Buddhist institute serves as a treasure-trove of Tibetan, Lepcha and Sanskrit manuscripts. The institute is now a seat of learning of Buddhist philosophy and has an amazing range of 200 Buddhist icons and rare Thankas. There are statues of Lord Buddha in clay, wood and metal in different postures depicting the varied activities he had taken up in Abhaya Mudra, Dhyan Mudra and Varada Mudra. 
 
I took time out to gape at the colourful paintings portraying the 12 deeds of Lord Buddha. It is at the institute that we get to know more about guru Padmasambhava, renowned as the second Buddha who was born in 8th century at Orgyen in Swat Valley of Afghanistan. Thanks to the efforts of Guru Padmasambhava that Buddhism gained foothold in Tibet.
 
Besides, the institute has multiple tantric figures of Vajrayana Buddhism. The statue of Sarvajaya, better known as the goddess of victory has been sculpted in brass dating back to 19th century. The statue was first found at Kundeling temple in Tibet. There are statues of celestial Boddhisattavas who were the followers of Lord Buddha. The most popular female deity in Tibetan Buddhism is Tara. There is a belief in Tibetan Buddhism that White Tara has the power to bestow health and wealth while Green Tara offers protection from the fears of life. The display of seven water bowl offerings form another interesting facet of the institute. In keeping with the tradition, these water bowls were set out on a Buddhist altar every day as a mark of respect and gratitude to Lord Buddha.
 
Do-Drul Chorten
 
 
In the vicinity of the institute is the Do-Drul Chorten or the stupa with a towering spire plated in gold. We walked uphill to the chorten that has been the creation of the revered Trullishi Rimpoche, the leader of a particular sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Here we got to meet many
With Lamas at Do-drul Chorten
 
Buddhist Lamas who reside in the chorten premises. The chorten is surrounded by 108 prayer wheels that are turned by devout Buddhists.
 
Banjakhri
 
 
After visiting monasteries, we wanted to visit Banjakhri waterfalls at Ranka that provides sound views of stunning natural beauty. Lying around 10 km in the east of Gangtok, the gurgling waterfall has water gushing with a huge force. Jakhri in Nepali implies physician, in Rai community, it is known as Mangpa while Limboos call padangma. There are statues of jakhri, mangpa and padangma curing an ailing patient in the premises of the waterfall.
 
An aerial view of Gangtok
 
 
I flew down by chopper on my return journey from Gangtok to Bagdogra and was lucky enough to get breathtaking aerial views of Gangtok city, Rumtek Moanstery, the serene-flowing river Teesta winding its way through many twists and turns and the vast greenery of Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary in the vicinity of Siliguri.