travelmemoirsofswaati text

I am an intrepid traveller. Travelling has been my passion since school days. Hailing from the steel city of Rourkela in Odisha, I always had an opportunity to plan out my holidays with my family to exotic destinations that are rich in history and heritage in India. Looking back, I have also taken up trekking in Chauragarh hills of Pachmarhi, Shatrunjaya Hills of Palitana, Vaishno Devi or the Muktinath temple in Mustang Valley in Nepal and Lalang Waterfall in rainforests of Tioman Island in Malaysia. I have penned down the Odisha destinations in Pick2Move-India Travel planner brought out by Sampan Media Limited, New Delhi. I have compiled a travelogue themed- “Journeys across India” published by Best Books, Kolkata. I generally take up travel to pen down travelogues, know the art and craft of the faraway lands and of course, I do travel reporting for leading English dailies of India.

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Tuesday 17 February 2015

Pachmarhi

Evergreen jewel in Satpura Hills
 
The only hill resort in Central India snuggled in the Mahadeo Hills of Satpura Range is Pachmarhi that forms a veritable delight for travellers and adventure buffs. During one of our annual visit to Madhya Pradesh, we had set off to explore the colonial out-of-the-city haunt and were carried away with its fascinating ambience replete with waterfalls, gently flowing streams, ravines, gorges and pristine rock shelters.
 
For Pachmarhi, we started off from Pipariya and took a 48 km drive along the banks of river Denwa and there was no looking back. Our premier destination was Pandav Caves comprising five sandstone rock dwellings dating back to Buddhist period. 
 
Resting on a hill, the 4th century caves have pillared verandah and is believed to have offered shelter to Pandavas during exile. The heart of the town has Christ Church with stained glass panels that reflect bygone colonial architecture.
 
Forsyth or Priyadarshini Point
 
The attractions are many like Priyadarshini or Forsyth Point- a vantage location that traces the discovery of the hill resort by Captain Forsyth sometime in 1857. If you are interested to view ravines, head to Handi Khoh that has a steep slope and a 300 feet high precipice.
 
If the pre-historic era excites you, there is the Paleolithic Mahadeo Cave with the deity of Lingaraj and rock shelters nestling in Mahadeo Hills at a height of 4,360 metres. Made of sandstone rocks, the rock shelters have overhanging streams and cascades that make the sight tempting. From here, we proceeded further to Gupt Mahadeo, the narrowest point in the valley that has a tunnel-like cave with an overhanging stream and we had to enter the cave with caution.
 
Our next exploration site was Jata Shankar, a unique rock shelter seated at the source of Jambu Dweep stream. We had to take up a short steep trek and could view rock formations in the form of matted locks of Lord Shiva. We were stressed-out but more excitement awaited us when we moved to Jamuna Prapat or Bee Fall. We gathered a lot of stamina to climb the 490 metres rocky terrain that has a roaring cascade with swarms of bees buzzing around.
 
No visit to Pachmarhi is complete without a trek to Chauragarh, possibly the most prominent landmark in the Satpura range. The next day, we made our way through bridle path criss-crossed by streams and we passed through 4 km inhospitable terrain without any human habitation. It was a journey from one hill to another with rock shelters and dense groves and climbing the huge boulders was quite tough for us. We climbed around 1,365 steps and paused for breath when the age-old shrine of Lord Shiva appeared. We were closed to the summit. 
 
A view from Chauragarh Hill
 
The Chauragarh hill provides a spectacular view of a host of Satpura Range infested with lush greenery. We paid our obeisance to the life-size statue of Lord Shiva with a smiling face.
 
Before bidding adieu to Pachmarhi, we hurried to Dhoopgarh in the midst of Satpura Tiger Reserve with massive hanging cliffs. Resting at a height of 4,329 metres, Dhoopgarh provides grand views of sunset.

Sunday 15 February 2015

Mount Abu

The captivating hill retreat in Aravalli
 
Around 185 km from Udaipur in Sirohi district of Rajasthan is the pleasant retreat of Mt. Abu. We took off from Ahmedabad and a 250-km picturesque drive made us reach Mt. Abu nestling on the southern edge of the Aravalli Hills. The road to Mt Abu is flanked by barren hills with overhanging rocks in various forms and the rock faces appear like huge projections that attract travellers.
 
We had a penchant to visit the splendid Dilwara temple and within a short time, after reaching Mt Abu we headed to the shrine.
 
Dilwara Temple
 
At a distance of 3 km from the hill resort, the 11th century Dilwara temple is a man-made wonder in marble with a marvellous gallery of Jain shrines. The shrine complex encompasses a group of five temples that stand as a treasure house of great Indian artworks. Created by leading architects of Gujarat, the shrine stands apart with exquisite marble carvings. 
 
A visit to Vimal Vasahi temple, the premier shrine in the complex made us gape at the artistic gems. Designed by Vimal Shah, the minister of bygone Solanki ruler in Gujarat, the shrine was built in 1031 AD and houses the reigning deity, Adinath- the first Jain Tirthankara. We did not forget to visit the central shrine honouring Rishabhdev with 52 pillars showing off impressive carvings and the ceilings adorned with overhanging sunflower-shaped marble works. 
 
Nakki Lake, Mount Abu, Rajasthan
 
 
The picture postcard hill resort of Mt Abu has the enchanting Nakki Lake at a height of 1,200 metres in the midst of Aravalli hills providing panoramic views of the landscape. There is the Toad Rock; the enormous rock overhanging the lake that resembles a toad. For us, the hill resort presented a slice of paradise and the charm refuses to fade.

Tuesday 10 February 2015

Southern pinnacles of faith

Southern pinnacles of faith
 
Madurai - City of gopurams
 
My enthusiasm knew no bounds when I had a chance to travel to Madurai, the temple city of Tamil Nadu lying on an impressive jagged coastline. Earlier known as Madhurapuri, Madurai prides in having a rich heritage of temples and manmade monumental glory that would take you back in time.
 
The greatest landmark of Dravidian architecture in India, the 2500-year-old temple city of Madurai on the banks of river Vaigai is undoubtedly the second largest city in Tamil Nadu with soaring gopurams
 
Meenakshi Temple
 
The magnificent Meenakshi Sundareshwar temple on West Tower Street has five prominent, intricately carved colourful gopurams. We entered the shrine through west gopuram that has multi-coloured images and stone sculptures. The nine-storied west gopuram is highly adorned with 1,124 sculptures and the southern gopuram is the tallest soaring at a height of 48.8 metres. All the gateways display sculpted tales from Indian mythology.
 
We entered the temple comprising two sanctorums- the first devoted to Lord Shiva and the other to his consort- Meenakshi. The chief attraction is the Meenakshi Amman temple with walls and ceilings richly laid with colourful sculptures of gods and goddesses. It was a divine experience for us visiting the shrine that forms one of the largest temple complexes of South India. There are other wonders in the shrine like richly embellished musical pillars, the Hall of Thousand Pillars with 985 pillars, huge mandaps and a lotus tank in the temple complex. 
 
Tirumalai Nayak Palace
 
Another 2 km away from Meenakshi temple is the 17th century Tiurmalai Nayak Palace on Palace Road that was built by King Tirumalai Nayak, the prominent ruler of Nayak dynasty in 1636. One can get to know more about the ancient Chola paintings, Vijaynagar paintings and the Pandya art at the palace. Set in soft tones, the palace is an example of Indo-Sarcenic architecture that stands as a memorial of the bygone ruler where he lived and held court. There are two residential portions- Swarag Vilasam and Ranga Vilasam and a rectangular court at the centre flanked by intricately carved tall columns.
 
Rameshwaram-A journey back to epic times
 
Rameshwaram Shrine
 
 Tucked away around 174 km from Madurai on the Gulf of Mannar is the tiny island of Rameshwaram that is truly a remarkable pilgrim destination and is considered as one of the four pilgrim centres in India. The pilgrim resort evokes the charm of the epic era and for those wishing to pay a tribute to Lord Rama and his victory over the kingdom of Ravana, Rameshwaram is the perfect choice.
 
On our way to Rameshwaram, we crossed the Pamban Bridge or the Indira Gandhi Bridge built over a bay spanning over 2.2 km. Being the longest bridge in the country, the Pamban Bridge connects Rameshwaram with the mainland.
 
We visited Ramanathaswamy temple housing one of the 12 jyotirlingams in India. Better known as Rameshwar shrine, the temple was visited by Swami Vivekananda way back in 1897. The entrance of the shrine bears a huge gopuram rising to a height of 38.4 metres. The shrine is devoted to Lord Ramanathaswamy with wonderful glimpses of artistic grandeur, carved pillars, ornate ceilings and adorned corridors that are longest in Asia.
 
We also visited Gandhamardana Parvat on the hillock that forms the highest point on the island. The legendary shrine has the footprints of Lord Rama. Our visit to Sethubandh deserves mention since it has a fabulous display of floating rocks and stones used by Lord Rama in the bygone era to build the Ram’s Bridge connecting India and Sri Lanka. There is the five-faced Hanuman at the entrance of Sethubandh.
 
We wended our way to Dhanushkodi, a barren island on the southernmost tip of Rameshwaram. At a distance of 18 km from the pilgrim resort, Dhanushkodi has the ruined, historic shrine of Kothanda Ramaswamy or Vibhishan temple where Vibhishan had surrendered to Lord Rama.
 
Kanya Kumari- Holy land on southernmost tip of India
 
The shores of Kanya Kumari
 
Nearly 300 km from Rameshwaram down south, is the sacred land of Kanya Kumari, also popular as Cape Comorin. A visit to the land is a must for all travellers since ages for it marks the merging of three great seas of the Indian sub-continent – the Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea. For us, travelling to Kanya Kumari was something out of Great Expectations since the land has been sanctified by great souls like Swami Vivekananda and Thiruvalluvar.
 
The merging of three seas presents an unforgettable sight. We first headed to the reputed ancient shrine of Kanya Kumari that houses the deity- Goddess Kanya Kumari adorned with a diamond nose ring that glitters in the dark. The shrine is for only Hindu pilgrims. We paid obeisance to Lord Ayappan temple at the entrance and there is an age-old shrine of Adi Shankara.
 
The highpoints of our trip to Kanya Kumari was the 20-minute cruise to the colossal Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the Vivekananda Kendra standing in the midst of the sea. Swami Vivekananda had arrived here in 1892 and meditated for three consecutive days on the rock from December 25 to 27. 
 
In contemporary times, Vivekananda Memorial stands on the rocks created by Eknath Ranade. We could view the towering statue of Thiruvalluvar, the great Tamil poet at a height of 133 feet adjacent to Vivekananda Rock Memorial. The Holy Church of Lady Ransom stands prominently on the mainland.
 
Mandapam at Vivekananda Rock Memorial
 
The Rock Memorial constitutes a mandapam bearing a giant statue of Swami Vivekananda with an “Om” symbol installed at Dhyan Mandapam. Built in 1970, the mandapam has been consecrated by Swami Vishweswarand of Belur Math. We sighted the Pada Mandapam and digging the mythology, one gets to know that Goddess Parvati had meditated in the incarnation of Kanya on the spot marked as “padam” symbol.

Saturday 7 February 2015

Heritage wonders of Saurashtra

Heritage wonders of Saurashtra
 
Historic Jamnagar
 
Once famed as the Halar region, the coastal city of Jamnagar lying about 92 km from Rajkot was the stronghold of Jadeja Rajputs known as Jams. Jamnagar has been founded by Jam Rawal of Nawanagar down the memory lane in 1640. 
 
Lakhota Lake, Jamnagar
 
For history buffs, the walled Lakhota Lake sprawling over an area of 1040 sq. km has the magnificent Lakhota Island Palace or Ranmahal that came up sometime in 1856 with the statue of former cricket icon, Ranjeet Singhji at the entrance.
 
Idyllic beach palace of Chorwad
 
The fascinating beach destination of Chorwad is just 95 km drive from Porbandar in the district of Junagadh that we couldn’t afford to miss during our trip to Porbandar. We halted at the Holiday Camps of Gujarat Tourism that form the only options for tourists on their trip to Chorwad. Lying on the southern coast of Saurashtra, Chorwad is only 23 km from the fishing town of Veraval and proved to be quite exciting for us.
 
The beach rests in utmost tranquillity with the waves lashing on rocks. Chorwad is one of the few beach destinations in Gujarat that has a royal grandeur.
 
Summer Palace, Chorwad
 
Overlooking the beach is the spectacular Summer Palace of Nawab Mohabbat Khanji III, the Nawab of Junagadh. If luck is on your side, you can get to watch the sun rising gorgeously in the historic backdrop of the palace.
 
Junagadh’s regal grandeur
 
The fabled city of Junagadh on the foothills of Mount Girnar offers a plethora of medieval Islamic architecture that would surely quench the wanderlust of tourists. Junagadh was once the bastion of Nawabs and founded by Sher Khan Bazi, it joined hands with Independent India after a lapse of 85 days sometime on November 9, 1947. The fort city is a repository of historic marvels but unlike Hyderabad, has failed to take off as a popular tourist destination.
 
Our discovery of Junagadh began with the visit of 20 metres high Uparkot Fort or the Upper Fort that dominates the city and has an adorned gateway.
 
Durbar Hall Museum
 
The Durbar Hall Museum, or the residence of the Nawabs provides an insight into the fascinating lifestyles of the rich and famous. Tourists will be amazed with the range of exquisite objects d’art exhibited in the hall that make up a rare blend of European and Saurashtrian flavour.
 
The portrait of Nawab Bahadur Khan, the foremost ruler of Junagadh and the Nawab of famed Babi dynasty greets tourists in the Durbar Hall. The main hall has a wide range of furniture belonging to 19th century crafted from wood, glass and silver that depict an exemplary of superb craftsmanship of silversmith in foil mounted on carved wood. The antique chairs and tables, silver casket and palanquin, betel box carved out of silver, the Belgian cut glass mirrors and an exquisitely carved glass tree in the shape of a fountain add a touch of grandeur to the palace.
 
We entered the Textile Gallery of the museum replete with richly embroidered, gem-studded carpets flaunting karbochi works, hand fan and the flag of Junagadh. The Arms Gallery also exhibits a wide range of specialized weapons commonly used by the Nawabs
 
Our last sightseeing spot was the Nawab’s Mausoleum, the greatest landmark in the chequered history of Junagadh. It consists of Bahauddin Maqbara, an excellent piece embodying the post medieval Islamic architecture in India. A stopover at Ashoka’s Rock Edicts indicates the extension of Ashoka’s empire over Saurashtra.

Thursday 5 February 2015

Heritage landmarks of Central India


Heritage landmarks of Central India
 
Awesome Gwalior Fort
 
Gwalior Fort
 
For those who are in love with heritage monuments and are planning a trip soon, why not visit Gwalior Fort, the most reachable destination in Central India. The historic city has witnessed the reign of great Indian dynasties ranging from Pratiharas to Kachwahas and Tomars to Scindias. The massive fort dominates the city skyline and it was our premier visiting destination in the city.
 
Rising at a height of 35 feet and being the most unconquerable fort in the country, the glorious fort stands witness to landmark historical events. We negotiated through a steep winding road at the entrance and sighted the Gujari Mahal that showcases impressive architecture from the medieval times. 
 
The 15th century monument was built in loving memory of the Gujjar queen, Mrignayani and there are rare antiques displayed at the Archaeological Museum in the monument.
 
Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
 
We proceeded uphill and came across Man Mandir Palace that was established by Raja Mansingh of Tomar dynasty. The palace is a fabulous example of Hindu architecture and its ambience echoes with the chivalry of Rajput rulers. The fort has other prominent attractions like Teli ka Mandir and Sas-Bahu ka Mandir. 
 
Teli ka Mandir- a 19th century monument soaring at a height of 100 ft presents an exotic blend of Dravidian and Indo-Aryan art. Tourists should not miss on Scindia School in the fort complex.
 
For those intending to take a peek into the royal lifestyle of Scindias, a visit to Jai Vilas Museum that forms the present residence of the royal Scindia clan is the right thing to do.
 
Maharaja Jiwaji Rao Scindia Museum
 
A portion of the place has been transformed into Maharaja Sir Jiwaji Rao Scindia Museum way back in 1964. Built in 1874, the palace is an Italian structure with the life-size statue of Sir Jiwaji Rao Scindia at the entrance. 
 
The icons of Scindia dynasty starting from the founder of the family-Maharaja Mahadji Scindia to the present member- Jyotiraditya Scindia are all framed in portraits. The museum has a host of galleries including coins gallery, carpet gallery, textile gallery, manuscript gallery, Nepal and Kashmir Art gallery, Malabar furniture, French furniture, Jacobean furniture gallery and Belgian cut glass gallery. Tourists should take a peek at Gwalior Sangeet Gharana that shows off an array of stringed instruments. The most astonishing item was a silver train chugging on miniature rails at the grand Durbar Hall.

Heroic flavours of Jhansi
 
Around 98 km from Gwalior is the fabled town of Jhansi in the heart of Bundelkhand region and the destination that is synonymous with the valiant deeds of Rani Lakshmi Bai that continues to reverberate in the hearts of millions. Jhansi has diverse attractions with forts, palaces and shrines and is rarely visited by tourists.
Amod Garden, Jhansi Fort
 
At Jhansi, we dropped in at Rani Mahal, the former residence of Lakshmi Bai. The 18th century palace was the brainchild of Raghunath II of Nawalkar dynasty that was converted into one of the residences of Lakshmi Bai. The palace has a flat roof with double storied structure on all three sides except the western side and there is a quadrangular courtyard. 
 
Rani Mahal has many rooms, six halls and parallel corridors with multi-fold arches that are done up in red colours flaunting floral and faunal designs. There are curios displayed on the ground floor comprising sculptural works collected from Barwasagar, Madanpur and Chandanpur of Jhansi and Lalitpur districts.
 
Our major attraction was Jhansi Fort snuggled on Bangra Hill, built by Bundela chief, Bir Singh Ju Deo dating back to 1613 AD. The famed fort sprawling over 16 acres of land has 10 gates and was once under the domain of Mughals, Marathas and British for a considerable period of time. It was under the stronghold of Rani Lakshmi Bai who had thrown the gauntlet against the Raj rule during Sepoy Mutiny in 1857. 
 
We checked into the major attractions of the fort like Kadak Bijli Canon and Panch Mahal- the three-tier storied building that formed the residence of Rani Lakshmi Bai and her husband, Raja Gangadhar Rao. There is Kal Kothri, the prison built by the Marathas and the well-known Jumping Spot that marked the escape point for the great queen from the hands of the British.
 
Bhopal- the heart of Malwa
 
Bhopal was founded by the legendary Paramar ruler of Dhar, Raja Bhojadeva sometime back in 11th century A D while the princely state and the present day city of Bhopal has been the discovery of Afghan ruler- Dost Mohammad way back in 1723. During the rise of British rule in India, Bhopal was the second largest Muslim state and remained a separate state till in 1949 when it joined with Independent India.
 
On our premier visit to the city back in 2000, we travelled to Bhojpur that lies around 28 km from the city. The quaint little hamlet of Bhojpur is well-known for 12th century Bhojeshwar temple that honours Lord Shiva. 
 
The shrine is a protected monument and is popular as “Somnath of the East.” It attracts devotees in droves and is set on a raised stone ramp with its ornate dome supported by four huge pillars with tapering ends representing an amazing structure. 
 
The giant lingam in the sanctum rests on a huge square-shaped platform measuring 21.5 feet and is composed of three limestone blocks. It is the rare architectural gem that makes the lingam light and solid. The interiors of the shrine comprise a large ornate ceiling with concentric rings that have impressive mythical figures engraved.
 
From Bhojpur, we returned to the walled city that wears a traditional look with the bustling Chowk and vibrant markets.
 
Taj-ul-Masjid
 
We had a glimpse of Taj-ul-Masjid, the largest mosque in India that was established by Shah Jehan Begum, the queen of Bhopal. The towering mosque is characterized by inter-arched roof, broad façade and a large courtyard that makes it stand apart from other Indian mosques. Some of the other popular monuments belonging to medieval period are Jama Masjid with gold spikes adorning the minarets, Moti Masjid, and Sadar Manzil.

World-famous Stupas of Sanchi
 
Quite close to Bhopal is the Buddhist landmark of Sanchi that is nearly 10 km from Vidisha in Raisen district on the Itarsi-Jhansi section of Central Railways. Sanchi is a picturesque, tranquil getaway that has many global tourists. It was the Mauryan Emperor, Ashoka, the great Buddhist patron who laid the foundation of a Buddhist bastion on Sanchi hill or Vedisagiri in search of peace and tranquillity with a view to lead an austere life.
 
Listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, Sanchi is renowned the world over for its magnificent stupas, monasteries, temples and uniquely carved pillars that are open from sunrise to sunset. The centuries-old stupas came up between 3rd century BC to 12th century AD and stand witness to glorious Buddhist era.
 
Sanchi Stupa No 1
 
We first headed to Stupa No.1; a brilliant piece of architecture set up by Emperor Ashoka as early as 2nd century BC and has been carved from Chunar sandstone. Being the oldest stone structure in India, the stupa has a huge plastered dome in the form of a hemisphere crowned by a triple umbrella. There are the renowned Four Gateways- Eastern, Western, Northern and Southern gateway that provide unforgettable glimpses of Buddha’s journey of life towards enlightenment in the form of exquisite carvings.
 
The best thing about going to the Great Stupa 1 at Sanchi is that one can get to view the Four Gateways. We gazed at the lofty gateways that portray the Jataka Tales that have been finely chiselled with rich motifs and serve as best examples of early classical art.
 
Near the Southern Gateway is Stupa No3 that is decorated by an umbrella. We also sighted the 5th century Gupta Temple lying in ruins that represent one of the earliest examples of Indian temple art. The lion capital of the Ashokan Pillar is preserved in the museum run by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Tuesday 3 February 2015

Saurashtra- World of pilgrims

Saurashtra-World of pilgrims

Dwarka- where pilgrims congregate

The pilgrim land of Dwarka reminds me of the times when I had packed my bags and set out for a pilgrim tour along with my family sometime in 2004. The land steeped in myth and history on the Kathiawar Peninsula, Dwarka on the southern coast of Gujarat is one of the revered pilgrim centres in India. 
 
A 450-km-long drive from Ahmedabad on the National Highway No.8A brought us to the renowned temple resort of Dwarka where the mesmerizing chime of bells rent the ambience and soothes the tired minds with the promise of harmony and rejuvenation.
 
Dwarkadhish Temple on the banks of Gomati
 
The magnificent shrine of Dwarkadhish on the banks of Gomati creek draws a large chunk of pilgrims. Known as Jagatmandir, the five-storied shrine spreading over 4,000 sq. ft houses the black idol of Lord Krishna that is said to be over 2,500 years old and was the creation of Badrinath, the great grandson of Lord Krishna.

At Dwarka, we were at Toran Tourist Bungalow of Gujarat Tourism. We had an opportunity to watch the Mangla aarti in the wee hours of dawn at Dwarkadhish temple. There are 60 granite and sandstone pillars that are intricately carved in the shrine with a shikara rising to 170 feet. Other significant shrines in the complex are Satyabhama, Saraswati, Pradyumna and sage Durwasa. Here Prasad is locally known as Loni that conjures sweet butter.

Travelling another 16 km from Dwarka, we came across Nageshwar Mahadev that has the smallest jyotirlingam in India. From here, we were on to Beyt Dwarka, around 30 km away from Dwarka. A saying goes on that no visit to Dwarka is complete without a pilgrimage to the ancient holy site of Beyt Dwarka. 
 
We landed at Okha Port that offers sound views of saline marshes formed by Arabian Sea at Okha Rann where thousands of migratory birds flock. We hired a steam launch at Okha Port and departed for a 45 minute- cruise to Beyt Dwarka. 
 
The temple town of Beyt Dwarka belongs to hoary past and has the shrine of Beyt Dwarkadhish with hand-painted interiors, adorned doors, windows, balconies and pillars. Mythology puts forth that this was the place where Lord Krishna resided along with his family. We also visited temples of Jambuwanti, Satyabhama and Devaki. 
 
Rukmani Temple
 
 
While returning from Beyt Dwarka, we stopped at Rukmani temple, only 12 km from Dwarka. The splendid limestone shrine dates back to 1,600 years old.


Religious relevance of Veraval

From Dwarka, we travelled to Veraval, the bygone port and close to it is the holy Bhaluka Teerth where Lord Krishna breathed his last before being shot by a hunter. The shrine honours Lord Krishna apart from the legendary Peepal tree where the Lord had departed. Pilgrims can watch the Triveni Sangam- the confluence of three rivers including Hiranya, Kapila and Saraswati. 
 
Nageshwar Mahadev Shrine, Dwarka
 
It is widely believed that the last rites of Lord Krishna were performed on the Hiranya river banks on the spot known as “Dehotsarg” and the complex is famed as Prabhas Kshetra with Geeta Mandir and Naagshtan that marks the transformation of Lord Balaram into a snake before entering into the ground.



Somnath- the land of divine faith

Somnath Mahadev Shrine
 
Veraval is the gateway to Somnath in Junagadh district and the renowned Somnath Mahadev shrine lies on the tip of Saurashtra Peninsula that has tempted pilgrims, history buffs, archaeologists and travellers ever since inception. Spread over 5 sq. km on the shores of Arabian Sea, the legendary 12th century shrine of Somnath has the premier jyotirlingam of India that was ravaged 11 times by Mohammad of Ghazni. 
 
Renovated by Sardar Vallabhai Patel around five decades ago, the shrine has a unique location since there is no land between the shrine and the South Pole. We were amazed by the ornate silver doors, umbrellas and chandeliers in the sanctum. There are highly decorated stone columns with mythical figures in the shrine that provide the best example of Chalukyan art.



Palitana

On our last leg of Saurashtra tour, we were at Palitana in Bhavnagar district where we halted at Hotel Sumeru owned by Gujarat Tourism. We were excited to begin our trek to the sacred mountains of Palitana and reached before dawn at the foothills. 
 
We began our arduous trek of 4 km to the Shetrunjaya Hills at a height of 1,800 feet comprising 3,745 steps. Once we began our climb, it was an amazing experience. We experienced the break of the dawn with the cool air soothing our body and river Shetrunjaya gleamed like a silver coil far away. It took two-and-half hours to complete the trek when we finally reached the gallery of shrines.

We spotted as many as 863 exquisitely carved shrines that form the largest Jain temple complex in North India. The sacred shrines of Palitana belong to 13th century and were crafted by the craftsmen who were involved in the creation of fabulous shrines of Dilwara and Ranakpur.
 
Shri Adishwara Temple
 
The most significant shrine is Shri Adishwara temple honouring Rishabhdev, the first Jain Tirthankar and was set up at a cost of Rs 2.97 crore. The Sausthambh temple has 100 pillars and Shantinath temple is dedicated to Bahubali and Bharat, the brother Lord Rama. 
 
There are ashtadhatu images of Pandavas, not to mention the Hindu shrines of Hanuman, Saraswati and Lord Shiva. Once our trek was over, we began our return trek. We were tired and were beaten by hunger pangs when we indulged in having masala dahi sold by Rabadi women. Once the trek was over, I was filled with a sense of contentment.



Ambaji

Temple of Amba Mata at Ambaji
 
For pilgrim travellers on a spiritual tour of Saurashtra, Ambaji is a 200 km drive from Ahmedabad in the Banaskantha district of Gujarat that provides views of scenic landscapes of Arasur Hills in the Aravalli range. One of the most popular pilgrim destinations in Saurashtra, the revered Shakti Peeth of Ambaji is crafted in marble and is fondly known as “Mota” (elder) Ambaji among devotees. The shrine adores Goddess Ambaji without any idol. One would come across a triangular yantra in the sanctum sanctorum. Devotees throng here during Navratri and full moon fairs are held in Chaitra, Kartik and Bhadrapad.