Southern pinnacles of faith
Madurai - City of gopurams
My
enthusiasm knew no bounds when I had a chance to travel to Madurai,
the temple city of Tamil Nadu lying on an impressive jagged
coastline. Earlier known as Madhurapuri, Madurai prides in having a
rich heritage of temples and manmade monumental glory that would take
you back in time.
The
greatest landmark of Dravidian architecture in India, the
2500-year-old temple city of Madurai on the banks of river Vaigai is
undoubtedly the second largest city in Tamil Nadu with soaring
gopurams.
Meenakshi Temple |
The magnificent Meenakshi Sundareshwar temple on
West Tower Street has five prominent, intricately carved colourful
gopurams. We entered the shrine through west gopuram
that has multi-coloured images and stone sculptures. The nine-storied
west gopuram is highly adorned with 1,124 sculptures and the
southern gopuram is the tallest soaring at a height of 48.8
metres. All the gateways display sculpted tales from Indian
mythology.
We
entered the temple comprising two sanctorums- the first devoted to
Lord Shiva and the other to his consort- Meenakshi. The chief
attraction is the Meenakshi Amman temple with walls and ceilings
richly laid with colourful sculptures of gods and goddesses. It was a
divine experience for us visiting the shrine that forms one of the
largest temple complexes of South India. There are other wonders in
the shrine like richly embellished musical pillars, the Hall of
Thousand Pillars with 985 pillars, huge mandaps and a lotus
tank in the temple complex.
Tirumalai Nayak Palace |
Another
2 km away from Meenakshi temple is the 17th century
Tiurmalai Nayak Palace on Palace Road that was built by King
Tirumalai Nayak, the prominent ruler of Nayak dynasty in 1636. One
can get to know more about the ancient Chola paintings, Vijaynagar
paintings and the Pandya art at the palace. Set in soft tones, the
palace is an example of Indo-Sarcenic architecture that stands as a
memorial of the bygone ruler where he lived and held court. There are
two residential portions- Swarag Vilasam and Ranga Vilasam and a
rectangular court at the centre flanked by intricately carved tall
columns.
Rameshwaram-A
journey back to epic times
Tucked
away around 174 km from Madurai on the Gulf of Mannar is the tiny
island of Rameshwaram that is truly a remarkable pilgrim destination
and is considered as one of the four pilgrim centres in India. The
pilgrim resort evokes the charm of the epic era and for those wishing
to pay a tribute to Lord Rama and his victory over the kingdom of
Ravana, Rameshwaram is the perfect choice.
On
our way to Rameshwaram, we crossed the Pamban Bridge or the Indira
Gandhi Bridge built over a bay spanning over 2.2 km. Being the
longest bridge in the country, the Pamban Bridge connects Rameshwaram
with the mainland.
We
visited Ramanathaswamy temple housing one of the 12 jyotirlingams
in India. Better known as Rameshwar shrine, the temple was visited by
Swami Vivekananda way back in 1897. The entrance of the shrine bears
a huge gopuram rising to a height of 38.4 metres. The shrine
is devoted to Lord Ramanathaswamy with wonderful glimpses of artistic
grandeur, carved pillars, ornate ceilings and adorned corridors that
are longest in Asia.
We
also visited Gandhamardana Parvat on the hillock that forms the
highest point on the island. The legendary shrine has the footprints
of Lord Rama. Our visit to Sethubandh deserves mention since it has a
fabulous display of floating rocks and stones used by Lord Rama in
the bygone era to build the Ram’s Bridge connecting India and Sri
Lanka. There is the five-faced Hanuman at the entrance of Sethubandh.
We
wended our way to Dhanushkodi, a barren island on the southernmost
tip of Rameshwaram. At a distance of 18 km from the pilgrim resort,
Dhanushkodi has the ruined, historic shrine of Kothanda Ramaswamy or
Vibhishan temple where Vibhishan had surrendered to Lord Rama.
Kanya
Kumari- Holy land on southernmost tip of India
The shores of Kanya Kumari |
Nearly
300 km from Rameshwaram down south, is the sacred land of Kanya
Kumari, also popular as Cape Comorin. A visit to the land is a must
for all travellers since ages for it marks the merging of three great
seas of the Indian sub-continent – the Indian Ocean, the Bay of
Bengal and the Arabian Sea. For us, travelling to Kanya Kumari was
something out of Great Expectations since the land has been
sanctified by great souls like Swami Vivekananda and Thiruvalluvar.
The
merging of three seas presents an unforgettable sight. We first
headed to the reputed ancient shrine of Kanya Kumari that houses the
deity- Goddess Kanya Kumari adorned with a diamond nose ring that
glitters in the dark. The shrine is for only Hindu pilgrims. We paid
obeisance to Lord Ayappan temple at the entrance and there is an
age-old shrine of Adi Shankara.
The
highpoints of our trip to Kanya Kumari was the 20-minute cruise to
the colossal Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the Vivekananda Kendra
standing in the midst of the sea. Swami Vivekananda had arrived here
in 1892 and meditated for three consecutive days on the rock from
December 25 to 27.
In contemporary times, Vivekananda Memorial stands
on the rocks created by Eknath Ranade. We could view the towering
statue of Thiruvalluvar, the great Tamil poet at a height of 133 feet
adjacent to Vivekananda Rock Memorial. The Holy Church of Lady Ransom
stands prominently on the mainland.
Mandapam at Vivekananda Rock Memorial |
The
Rock Memorial constitutes a mandapam bearing a giant statue of
Swami Vivekananda with an “Om” symbol installed at Dhyan
Mandapam. Built in 1970, the mandapam has been consecrated by Swami
Vishweswarand of Belur Math. We sighted the Pada Mandapam and digging
the mythology, one gets to know that Goddess Parvati had meditated in
the incarnation of Kanya on the spot marked as “padam” symbol.
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