Vignettes from land of Black Pagoda
No visit to Puri is complete without travelling to Konark renowned as
the land of Black Pagoda.
Yatri Niwas |
I recall my last visit to Konark when I had
stayed at Yatri Niwas run by Odisha Tourism Development Corporation
for a few days. At Konark, I had a chance to explore the coastal
destination that is barely 30 km drive from Puri and 64 km from
Bhubaneshwar.
Also known as Arkashetra, Konark is derived form two words- Kona and
Ark that imply “corner of the sun”. The old-world town of Konark
is untouched by the influence of the jet age. History flows on that
Konark was widely known as the forest of “Maitra Aranya” on the
banks of river Chandrabhaga way, way back in the medieval period.
In
today’s era, the river has dried up and only a miniature pond
remains close to Chandrabhaga beach where devotees congregate on the
occasion of Shukla Sapatmi in the month of January to take a
holy dip in the legendary river to wash away one’s sins.
Enchanting Sun Temple
The beauty of Konark is its Sun temple or the Black Pagoda that
reflects a glorious heritage of Odisha. Steeped in mute silence, the
colossal Black Pagoda has a potted history of its own. Listed as a
world heritage monument, the Sun temple is on the “to-go” list
among all segments of tourists. The magnificent 13th
century temple, built by the Ganga king, Narasimhadeva in honour of
the Sun God has a rich display of Odishan architecture. In fact, it
is a magic created in stone and is one of the masterpieces of Kalinga
art.
The rock-cut temple was built in the shape of a huge chariot with
seven horses and twelve pairs of divine giant wheels each measuring
10 feet high that are engraved on both the sides and carry the
reigning deity forming the highpoint of the temple.
There are
numerous images carved on the walls of the temple that depict superb
works of craftsmanship of Odishan architecture. There is a detached
structure- the Natamandir or the dancing hall built on a square
platform and has a flight of steps. The Navgraha temple dedicated to
nine planets lies adjacent to the Sun temple.
Chandrabhaga
sea beach
Chandrabhaga |
Once our Sun temple tour was over, we were off to the isolated silver
beach of Chandrabhaga. Just a few kilometres away from the Sun
temple, the pristine Chandrabhaga beach has the verdant beauty of
lush coconut groves that tempts all segments of tourists.
Once upon a
time, tourists rarely visited the beach but new-age tourists crowd
the palm-fringed beach that is steeped in tradition and has a long
coastline. In the twilight hours, at Chandrabhaga, it is a sheer
delight to watch the last rays of the sun play with the silver beach.
We did not forget to visit the age-old Hanuman Chalisa shrine near
the beach that finds its mention in the Puranic texts.
Legendary
Ramachandi shrine
For pilgrims on a tour of Puri and Konark, a visit to the pilgrim
point of Ramachandi is another wonderful experience. Nearly 8 km from
Konark, the shrine of Ramachandi is at the confluence of river
Kushabhadra meeting the Bay of Bengal.
A half-an-hour drive from Konark brought us to the tranquil environs
of Ramachandi in the midst of casuarina-lined roads on Konark-Puri
Marine Drive Road. The shrine flaunts a typical Odishan architecture
with lions adorning the apex of the temple. Moreover, there is
mythological significance associated with the shrine that mentions
about the existence of legendary Goddess Ramachandi.
Ten avatars of Goddess Ramachandi |
Back in the 16th century, the Goddess had foiled the
attempt of Kalapahar who had set out to demolish the Sun temple at
Konark. The Puranic text mentioned in the shrine premises highlights
that it was the Goddess who had suggested Lord Rama, the plan to
conquer Lanka.
The shrine premises is adorned with ten statues
depicting the different forms of the Goddesses including Kali,
Lakshmi, Dhumawati, Bagla, Chinnamasta et al. After the
darshan of the shrine is over, one can get to see the Kalpavat or the
sacred banyan tree in the shrine complex believed to fulfil the
desires of pilgrims.
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