Alluring Western Chats

Alluring Western Ghats

Mahabaleshwar-The land of strawberry

 

The most exciting destination on the Western Ghats in Satara district of Maharashtra is Mahabaleshwar that was the bygone summer capital of Bombay Presidency. The charm of the hill resort of Mahabaleshwar is incredible offering unending vistas of natural beauty, virgin peaks, verdant groves of valleys, meandering roads, plateaus and the best glimpses of Western Ghats. The hill resort has everything. There are pilgrim points, waterfalls, lakes and strawberry gardens and we couldn’t have bargained for more. There are a plethora of activities for tourists and they can indulge in bush walking, horse riding, boating on Venna Lake and strawberry gardens.

 

Around 120 km from Pune and a 3½ hour-drive by Volvo brought us to the ancient hill resort of Mahabaleshwar. For pilgrims, the hill resort has 450-year-old Panchganga temple that constitutes the source of five rivers- Savitri, Krishna, Saraswati, Gayatri and Koyna. Lying about 9 km from the town, the shrine honours Lord Krishna and Brahma and waters of five rivers gush out from the mouth of the Nandi forming a spring. 

 

There are many fascinating points around the hill resort like Arthur’s Seat with mesmerizing views of the Western Ghats. One can go to Hunter Point and Echo Point that echoes with the buzzing sound of scores of honey bees. A visit to Tiger Spring has water gushing out from a needle-like hole and Window Point has breathtaking views of Western Ghats. One can drive 6.8 km from the town to reach Kate’s Point to enjoy unforgettable glimpses of Krishna Valley and Deccan Plateau. 

 

Needle Point, Mahabaleshwar

 

The attraction of Needle Point is quite tempting that has a portion of the hill resembling an elephant’s face.

Lodwick Point

Perched at a height of 1,240 metres from the ground is Lodwick Point at a distance of 4.8 km away from the town and a favourite destination for travellers. The first Britisher, General Peter Lodwick had set foot in Mahabaleshwar after trekking through rough terrains in 1824. A monument in memory of General Lodwick has been erected.

A pilgrim’s passage to Bhimashankar

Bhimashankar Shrine

 

Nestling in the Western Ghats and nearly 130 km from Pune is the pilgrim resort of Bhimashankar in Pune district that has one of the 12 jyotirlingams of India where pilgrims in droves congregate.

 

A three-and-half hour drive from Pune through jungle clad and semi-barren hills of Western Ghats offered wondrous glimpses of nature. Lying on the banks of river Bhima, the pilgrim point of Bhimashankar rests in Bhimashankar Wildlife Sanctuary in the midst of thick floral groves. The highly revered shrine has been the creation of Nana Phadnavis, the famed statesman. The huge black shrine with interior carvings houses the idols of Shiva and Parvati and Lord Ganesha.

Gandhi trail in Saurashtra

Gandhi trail in Saurashtra

 

Dollops of history in Ahmedabad 

 

Way back in the last decade, a journey to Ahmedabad provided us an opportunity to have glimpses of Sabarmati Ashram- a dream conceptualized by Mahatma Gandhi. The sylvan environs on the banks of river Sabarmati represent an ode to simplicity and idealism. It was here way back on March 12, 1930 that the historic Dandi March took off for the coastal hamlet of Dandi.

 

A view of Gandhi Ashram

 

At Sabarmati Ashram, we stepped into Hriday Kunj- a simple ashram where Gandhiji stayed from 1918 to 1930 and the regular items like the spinning wheel used by Gandhiji are preserved here. A visit to Vinoba Kutir that formed the residence of Vinoba Bhave from 1918 to 1921 is worth the experience.

 

Ahmedabad prides in some of the impressive shrines like Shri Radha Govind Dham, an enchanting shrine done up with intricately carved doors with aluminium engravings and painted interiors that portray the life of Lord Krishna. There is Vaishno Devi Teerth Dham – a cave shrine replica of Vaishno Devi shrine in Jammu. For history buffs, a visit to Adalaj Vav or steep well is a must lying about 17 km north of Ahmedabad. A unique five-storied well set up in 1499 has four highly carved pavilions.

 

The old quarters of the city has Siddi Saiyed Mosque that displays sandstone latticed work. The mosque was the work of Siddi Saiyed, a slave of Ahmed Shah, founder of the city of Ahmedabad. At the Sidhi Basher mosque, there are architectural wonders of the famed Shaking Minarets or Jhoolta Minar where when one minaret is moved with force, the other shakes in sympathy.

 

No tour of Ahmedabad is complete without a visit to the holy citadel in pink sandstone called Akshardham in Gandhinagar. Sprawling over 23 acres of land, the glorious shrine of 108 feet has a gold-plated copper statue of Lord Swaminarayan and the shrine is supported with 97 carved pillars, 17 domes and 8 ornate windows. It is a brilliant mix of ancient and modern artistry.

Gandhiji’s ties with Rajkot

 

Our next destination was Rajkot, around 216 km from Ahmedabad where Mahatma Gandhi had his early education. Once the capital of Saurashtra, Rajkot is one of the largest cities in Gujarat that has Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi Vidyalay or Alfred High School set up in 1874. Rajkot has Ramakrishna temple bearing an elaborate display on the life and teachings of Ramakrishna and Sarada Devi and the global spiritual mission of Swami Vivekananda.

The charm of Porbandar

 

While trailing in the land of Mahatma, our ultimate destination was Porbandar or the “Yellow City” on the sea shore that evokes strong memories of Gandhiji. Porbandar was earlier known as Sudamapuri since it is the birthplace of Sudama, Lord Krishna’s friend. 

 

Bharat Ashram at Porbandar

 

 We headed to Kirti Mandir, the three-storied ancestral residence of Gandhiji. He was the fourth son of Putlibai and Karamchand Gandhi who was born in 1869 AD and the place of his birth is marked with a mystic cross. The residence has a library, prayer hall and oil paintings. One should not miss out on Bharat Mandir on Dayanand Bagh that was set up in 1956. The sprawling temple has a relief map of India and its walls have life-size works on canvas of Indian luminaries. 

On the trail of Narmada

On the trail of Narmada

 

Amarkantak: Queen of Maikal beckons

 

Amarkantak in the Shahdol district of Madhya Pradesh is renowned as the “Queen of Maikal Hills” and forms the source of the mighty Narmada.

 

Narmada Mata Mandir, Amarkantak

 

For travel buffs in search of a blend of pristine natural world and spiritual ambience that is far behind the contemporary world, a visit to Amartkantak would be their ideal choice. Amarkantak boasts of the confluence of three rivers of Central India- Narmada, Johila and Sone.

 

It was on one of those Navratri days during late ‘90s when we made our way by jeep from Pendra Road, lying 42 km from Amarkantak and it was a bone-jarring journey. Amarkantak range lies at 1,000 metres height and we passed through the vast forest lands of Bhundokona, Jaleshwar and Amanala.

 

It was at Amarkantak that I had an experience of staying at a dharamshala and the town experiences frequent blackouts. The next day, we set out for Kapil Dhara, nearly 6 km from the source of Narmada river. It is one of the highest waterfalls fed by river Narmada and marks the union of three mighty ranges- Satpura, Vindhya and Maikal. 

 

At Kapil Dhara, the torrential waters of Narmada gush down the rocky slopes from a height of 3,200 metres forming echoes. Going downhill, we came across a serene white cascade called Doodh Dhara.

 

We wended our way to the imposing Narmada temple dedicated to Goddess Narmada and it is here that the river originates in the Narmada Kund. The shrine reflects an age-old charm and is thronged by a flurry of devotees. We wandered off to Mai ki Bagiya, at a distance of four-and-half km from the shrine complex that marks the confluence of rivers Son and Bhadra.

 

The Gond land of Jabalpur

 

The largest city on the banks of Narmada and the third most highly populated city in Madhya Pradesh is Jabalpur, once the seat of Gond rulers that echoed with the chivalry of the Gond queen, Rani Durgawati. If one wants to commune with nature, then the best destination is Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat on river Narmada at a distance of 16 km from the city.

 

At Bhedaghat, nature is at its best and there’s no better way to explore the sight than visiting on the occasion of Narmada Mahotsav during Navratri. 

 

Marble Rocks

The entrance of Marble Rocks has the statue of Lord Hanuman and as you turn around, there is the swift-flowing river Narmada meandering along the Marble Rocks that plunge into a smoke cascade called Dhuandhar providing vintage beauty of nature. Visiting Bhedaghat during moonlight is a different experience for travellers.

 

We proceeded from Dhuandhar to the famed 19^th century Chausat Yogini shrine devoted to Goddess Durga.

 

Madan Mahal Fort

 

The city also has Madan Mahal Fort, a creation of Gond ruler, Raja Madan Shah that serves as the best example of medieval construction. The fort has been carved on a huge rock and served as a watchtower during the reign of Rani Durgawati. There is Shiv Pancheshwar temple and Sharda Mata temple in the vicinity. We negotiated a number of steps to get a glimpse of Shiv Pancheshwar temple with the Lingam installed in the rock cave.

 

Omkareshwar- A pilgrims’ world

 

When I travel from Indore to Khandwa, I can never miss out the Om-shaped Island resting on the Malwa Plateau formed at the confluence of two rivers - Narmada and Kaveri. It’s none other than the divine pilgrim town of Omkareshwar that has one of the 12 jyotirlingams. The holy town injects a breath of fresh air into humdrum living and rejuvenates the minds of pilgrims. 

 

Omkareshwar

 

The journey from Khandwa to Omkareshwar is really enchanting with scores of soyabean fields and cotton cultivation spreading across the blue hills along the horizon. We were at Yatri Niwas in the holy town of Omkareshwar that is best visited during Navratri when the sleepy pilgrim town wakes up to a vibrant festive mood. We made our way to the shrine of Omkar Mandhata snuggled on the foot of Mandhata Hill and lies on a tiny island formed by the fork of Narmada. 

 

The shrine is across the Narmada Bridge that provides fascinating view of the river. Mythology puts forth that King Mandhata, the ancestor of Lord Rama had meditated on this spot and moved by his devotion, Lord Shiva had granted him the throne here in the form of Om-shaped Island. 

 

The throne of King Mandhata is still preserved in the shrine. It was at this site that Shankracharya, the great Hindu reformer derived his divine powers from his mentor- Govindacharya. The shrine has a frieze of figures carved from soft stone. 

 

Other temples to look for are Shri Batuk Bhairav temple, Pataleshwar, Narmada and Navgraha temples. Before departing, we trekked our way to Siddhanath temple resting atop Mandhata Hill and built in early medieval Brahminic style.

 

Medieval world of Maheshwar

 

Maheshwar on the banks of Narmada in Khargon district of Madhya Pradesh was the brainchild of Rani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. Around 91 km from Indore, Maheshwar formed the seat of Malwa culture and was best known as Mahismati during the epic period. The road to Maheshwar from Indore is a convenient journey than the one from Mandu.

 

Maheshwar Fort is the calling card of the town that dominates the town and has the palace or Rajwada replete with an array of shrines and ghats on the banks of river Narmada. Sprawling over 2 km, the Rajwada is a colossal fort with towering gateways- Ahilya Dwar and Kamani Darwaza. 

 

Once inside the fort, we took time to visit Rajrajeshwar temple, a prominent religious shrine with profusely carved doorways. The shrine honouring Lord Shiva has 11 Nanda Deepak burning all round the year symbolizing happiness.

 

Vithaleshwar Temple

 

At Maheshwar, I had put up at Yatri Niwas overlooking the fort. There are other popular shrines in the fort complex- Ahileshwar and Vithaleshwar temple with adorned overhanging balconies. Each shrine has a flight of steps leading to the picturesque ghats like Ahilya Ghat, Peshwa Ghat, Vishwanath Ghat and Fanse Ghat.

 

Bewitching Mandu

 

The medieval town of Mandu on Malwa Plateau in Dhar district at an altitude of 2,000 ft in western Madhya Pradesh brings back memories of royal grandeur that stand in ruins. The town overlooks river Narmada that flows thousand feet below. 

 

It was in Mandu, well-known as ‘the City of Joy” that we could sight the architectural grandeurs of Islamic Pathan art and the town once witnessed the blooming romance of Rani Roopmati and the poet prince, Baz Bahadur.

 

I recall back a decade ago, when I was on a tour of Ujjain, I landed up in Mandu en route Dhar and stayed at Tourist Rest House that overlooks Jami Masjid in the hub of the town. Mandu is enclosed by 12 gateways of which Delhi Darwaza stands apart. 

 

The architectural landmarks are all in Central Group and the Royal Enclave or Shahi Parisar. Some of the spectacular monuments that I came across in Central Group are Hoshang Shah’s Tomb, the first marble edifice of India and the one of the best examples of Afghan art that later inspired the builders of Taj Mahal. 

 

There is the splendid Jami Masjid modelled on the Great Mosque of Damascus. 

Ashrafi Mahal

The Ashrafi Mahal or “The Palace of Gold Coins”, built by the Malwa ruler, Mahmud Shah Khilji overlooks Jami Masjid.

 

A walk down the Royal Enclave brought us to Jahaz Mahal or “Ship Palace” tucked between two lakes, Munj Talao and Kapur Talao. We did not miss on the attractive Hindola Mahal or “Swinging Palace” with sloping walls and ornamental façade in sandstone. 

 

The enchanting Nahar Jharoka or “Tiger Balcony”, built by Emperor Jehangir and Dilwar Khan’s Mosque with Islamic Pathan architecture are other prominent attractions in Royal Enclave. 

 

Roopmati's Pavilion

The special attraction of Mandu is Roopmati Pavilion that offers a sweeping view of 16^th century Baz Bahadur Palace. Before winding up, we visited the Sunset Point for a panoramic view of Malwa Plateau. Apart from the bygone royal glory, one can get to interact with the tribal settlements like Bhils, Garasias and Kalals in Mandu.

Our next door global destination

Our next door global destination

 

It was in July, 2014 that I was invited by Tourism Authority of Thailand to participate in Thailand Happiness Street Festival held at Bangkok Convention Centre and Centara Grand at Central World in Ratchaprasong area of Bangkok.

Bangkok

The “City of Angels” on the banks of river Chao Phraya, also known as “King of Rivers” stretches over 1,500 sq. km, is the glitzy city that is a shopper’s sanctuary and a traveller’s world with a plethora of glittering shopping malls, ancient shrines and a vibrant night life.

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo

This destination always features on my Bangkok tour itinerary.

 

Pagoda at the entrance

 

No visit to Bangkok is complete without a peek into the spectacular Grand Palace done up with gold leaf and attractive tiling with polished Italian marbles on the walls. 

 

Ramayana murals at The Grand Palace

 

 At the entrance, there is a chedi or a huge pagoda that has the ashes of Lord Buddha brought from India. 

 

                                  Wat Phra Kaeo

 

Wat Phra Kaeo or the shrine of Emerald Buddha is a magnificent shrine reflecting Thai art that houses the statue of Buddha in jade. 

 

 

The walls at the entrance have the mural paintings illustrating Ramayana. 

 

Replica of Angkor Vat temple

 

We sighted the replica of Angkor Vat temple of Cambodia at the Grand Palace. 

 

Boroma Piman

 

 There is Boroma Piman or Royal Guest House at Grand Palace.

Wat Pho

 

            

Pagodas at Wat Pho

 

 

 

Reclining Buddha

 

 

The 400-year-old shrine of Reclining Buddha lying close to Grand Palace and is the largest shrine in the city. A moment of divine bliss when one gets a chance to view the image of reclining Buddha from up-close quarters. Again, this was my second visit to Wat Pho.
 

The gold-plated image was constructed in 1832 spanning 46-metre long and 15-metre high and evokes the thought of Lord Buddha’s entry into Nirvana.

Wat Arun

Wat Arun

 

Also famed as the shrine of Dawn on the Thonburi side opposite Grand Palace and belongs to the Ayuthayya period. Siam Ocean World Opened in 2005, it is the largest aquarium in South-East Asia and a great attraction for visitors.

Siam Niramit

Siam Niramit

 

 

The centre provides mind-boggling performances of Thailand’s art and cultural heritage by 150 performers using 500 costumes. 

 

 

Traditional Thai hamlet recreated in Siam Niramit

 

We also had a look at the ancient Thai hamlets that have been recreated at the centre exhibiting the art of making rice pudding, garland making, Thai craft and making Thai silk and playing Thai folk music.

 

Making rice pudding

 

 

Ratchaburi

 
Around 50 km from Bangkok is the Central Province of Ratchaburi that is a traveller’s delight for its Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. 

 

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

 

 

We took a tail speed long boat along the canal to get sound views of the floating market that depicts the traditional lifestyle of rural folks on river banks. There are miniature shops lined on either side of floating market and speed boats and paddle boats selling everything from lip-smacking Thai food to exquisite hand crafted art curious and pottery works, masks to Thai umbrellas.

Meyklong Adventure Market on railway tracks

 

On the way to Ratchaburi is the Meyklong Adventure Market on the tracks of Meyklong railway station. An interesting feature of the market is the traders along with their goods shift to the nearby place when any train passes on the railway tracks.

Hua Hin

A fishing hamlet in 19th century, Hua Hin in Prachuapkhiri Khan Province in the Gulf off Thailand is 200 km south of Bangkok. It has one of the oldest beaches in Thailand. It is well-known as a summer palace of the royal dynasty of Thailand and king Rama VII discovered the palace in 1920.

 

Hua Hin Railway Station

 

Hua Hin Railway Station is the most prominent landmark of the beach resort, notably one of the oldest stations in Thailand that came up during the reign of king Rama VI. 

Mongkut Klao Pavilion

 

The special feature of the station is the Mongkut Klao Pavilion built to greet the king.

Pranburi

Pranburi Sea Beach

Phraya Nakhon Cave

 

For those who have adventure in their blood, a visit to Phraya Nakhon cave snuggled atop the hill of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park is a must.

 

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park

 

It is a sheltered gulf in the Gulf of Thailand that was discovered around 200 years ago by a former ruler of Thailand who had sought shelter in the cave to escape from a storm. 

 

 

Lying in Pranburi which is 45 km from Hua Hin, we embarked upon the arduous trek to reach the cave lying at 450 metres high. The sky was overcast and it was drizzling when we began our uphill climb through boulders, rocks and tree branches in the midst of pristine wilderness. At places, I had to crawl over rocks. 

 

Limestone caverns

 

 Upon reaching the cave, we sighted a huge limestone cave made of three caverns, two of which have skylights that are virtual sinkholes. 
The cave looks fascinating with a number of trees taking roof in the caverns. The trekking terrain in the cave was quite dark and we had to cross a wooden bridge.

Tetrahedron Pavilion

 

 The middle of the cave has a Tetrahedron Pavilion on a mound that was laid down by king Rama V during Buddhist Era 2433. The pavilion represents the symbol of Prachuapkhiri Province and was done by skilled workers in Bangkok and taken to the existing site. The trekking expedition was a life-changing experience for me.

Phetchaburi

 
Around 62 km from Hua Hin is Phetchaburi that implies the “City of Diamonds” in Thai.

 

Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace

 

The premier attraction is Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace that denotes holy city hill is the premier palace on a mountain range in Thailand. 
 

We took the cable car ride to reach the palace lying in the historical park around 95 metres high above the sea level. We had to negotiate through a flight of steps and cobbled paths that lead to the palace. Locally famed as “Khao Wang” or the mountain with a palace, it flaunts a fusion of European, Chinese and Thai art. 
 

Set up in 1858 by king Rama IV or king Mongkut, the palace is spread over three peaks-western, central and eastern. We glanced at king Mongkut’s Palace at western peak that houses the king’s residential quarters.

 

Wat Phra Kaew shrine

 

There is Wat Phra Kaew- the shrine devoted to the king. Travellers visiting the palace need to take care since there are scores of monkeys in the park.

Ayuthayya

 
During my first visit to Thailand in April 2011, I travelled to Ayuthayya to experience the fun of Songkran celebration. Once the capital of Siam, Ayuthayya or Phra Nakhon Si

 

 

                            A glimpse of Wat Phra Si Sanphet

 

Ayuthayya is 76 km from Bangkok and has been declared as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1991.  The fabled city derived its name from Ayodhya, remained the capital for 417 years and flourished during 17th century. The city was under different royal dynasties of Thailand and was plundered by Burmese in 1767.

Ayuthayya was the brainchild of former Thai king, U-Thong in 1767 and there are abundant architectural grandeurs in the historic city. 

 

Bronze state of Buddha at Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit sanctuary

 

 We visited Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit – a huge sanctuary honouring tall, century-old, bronze image of Buddha that was installed during the rule of Thai king Songtham. 
 

It is incidentally one of the largest images of Buddha in bronze. A popular belief goes on in Thai that the Lord fulfills the wishes of devotees on Songkran.

The most outstanding monastery in Ayuthayya is Wat Phra Si Sanphet that was once a residential palace and is much similar to Wat Pho in Bangkok.

 

                     An outer view of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit

 

We had wonderful glimpses of the three towering chedis or pyramid-style stupas that are artistically inclined and are the prime attractions of Ayuthayya. A chedi has a Burmese architecture at its base and its upper tiers depict Thai style of art. During the golden period of Ayuthayya, Wat Phra Si Sanphet earned glory across Asia for its architectural wonder.